New York – Day 3

The weather on Tuesday morning was beautiful, finally the Sun was out, the sky was blue, but unluckily the temperature also climbed upwards quickly. By the time we arrived to Brooklyn where our day started, it was already too hot to stay in direct sunlight, so we tried to go from shade to shade. After a quick breakfast sandwich for Clio (which was quite nice) and a burrito for me (which was way too hot and heavy, so I barely touched it at the end…), we headed towards the Brooklyn Bridge. Walking down on Washington Street towards to waterfront you first get to see the metal structure of the Manhattan Bridge, which is already very impressive, and I get Clio’s point, who claims it is even the prettier of the two bridges.

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From here we followed the walkway along the East River, until we got the perfect view of Brooklyn Bridge. Here we (I) spent some time taking pictures, then we crossed under the bridge and walked back up to the start of the pedestrian path which runs along the upper level of the bridge.

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The view on Downtown Manhattan is great from here, and the suspension structure along with the stone arches of the bridge are truly spectacular, but we were very happy to finally arrive at the other end and sit down on a bench in the shade (and have a nice Belgian waffle with strawberries) of the City Hall Park. From here we walked down on Fulton Street to the South Street Seaport.

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Since I did not have much breakfast I had a huge banana split here (it was 3 huge bowls of ice cream and two bananas, plus some crazy amount of whipped cream and various dense sauces) after we had a quick walk inside the building and the souvenir shops of Pier 17. Then we continued down to and then back up Wall Street.

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We passed by the highly secured Stock Exchange, then arrived to Trinity Church. This is a really nice and pretty church surrounded by a small and quiet, green park/cemetery.

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After a short rest, we turned southwards on Broadway, bought me a new pair of flashy fluo yellow Nikes, and walked down to the ferry towards Staten Island. We took the ferry just for the view, and it was worth it (especially given the fact that the ferry is a free service). On the way towards Staten Island we had a great spot sitting on the rear deck overlooking the skyline of Downtown Manhattan.

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We made two observations from here: first, the enormous height of the new WTC tower is only clear from the distance (since from the street level, every skyscraper looks the same), second, the Statue of Liberty is way smaller than we imagined. It is kind of tiny :D After taking the first ferry back to Manhattan, we took the subway to the north to visit the High Line Park.

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It is one of my favourite sights of New York, a preserved and transformed elevated railway track. Narrow but long, it crosses many blocks as it is heading northwards across Chelsea.

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With its modern, green design, with each ingredient nicely put in place, it is a perfect place to stroll along, sit down here and there, and watch the city.

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After walking through the park, we walked all the way up to the Rockefeller Center and went up to the Top of the Rock Observation Deck after less than 15 minutes of waiting in line. The view was very nice from the top, although the air could have been a bit more clear, but there is nothing we could have done about that.

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As sunset was just upon us, and – as usual – we were already dead tired, we headed back to Jersey, and after a nice dinner (pasta and pizza) just outside the PATH station overlooking the main square, we went home and Zzzzz…

New York – Day 2

After a not so busy – but already quite paced – Sunday, our plans for Monday were much busier, so we left our apartment a bit earlier and after our usual short visit to the Starbucks, we hit the road in Manhattan at the Flatiron Building, the first real skyscraper.

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Already from the LEGO I bought back in Denver it is probably not a surprise that I am bit of an architecture-lover, so when it comes to city trips with such amazing buildings, I am always having a lot of fun. This day was definitely satisfying from this point of view.

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We walked around the small park here, passed by (and went into the gift shop) the Museum of Mathematics, then walked up towards the Empire State Building.

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It is really huge, thus when you get too close to it the view is not so nice anymore. We did not go up to the observatory on the top here, since we did not want to spend hours queueing in line, but you will see that we still managed to get nice views of the city from high above on the next day. Our next stop was Bryant Park, a nice small green island of peace in the centre of Midtown, with open air movie screenings and free sports to play, and many small tables and chairs to sit down and enjoy a quick bite or drink.

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We could already see some buildings of the Rockefeller Center from here, and of course at the end of the park, the backside of the New York Public Library. We walked inside this iconic building, visited a few reading rooms and sat at the entrance hall staring at the architectural beauty all around us.

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From here we walked across to the Grand Central Terminal, another building with an amazing interior (and a well placed Apple Store). After spending some time taking pictures, we went outside again, walked around the Chrysler Building, and went for a quick lunch at a Five Guys Burgers and Fries.

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The burgers were very good, and surprisingly, the fries were just as delicious. We did not rest much, before heading back across the Grand Central Terminal and continuing our journey towards the Uptown along 5th Avenue. As we arrived to the Rockefeller Center we first visited St. Patrick’s Cathedral, which was hidden behind a massive amount of scaffolding, so we did not see much of its beauty… Then we had a look into the LEGO Store (:D) and walked around the buildings of the Rockefeller Center.

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Here we made a mental note that the next day we have to come back before sunset and go up to the Top of the Rock Observation Deck. The next stop (with already aching backs and legs) was Times Square with all the neon lights and crowds of tourists…

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The smell of pee and sweat mixing on a warm summer day in the concrete and glass forest. For Clio, we also walked around inside the Disney Store. Then we still had a look at a few shops along or very near the 5th Avenue (Nike, FAO Schwarz – a massive toy store), before heading to Columbus Circle where we got some sushi for dinner from the Whole Foods Market which we ate while resting on a bench in Central Park. Since we were both dead tired at this point, we went home and probably fell asleep practically immediately :)

New York – Arrival and Day 1

Saturday the 17th of August was again a day of travel. Taxi to the airport, the usual check-in hassle with taking even the shoes off and going through full-body scanners, then hours of flying without free movies (but series on my new Nexus 7). We arrived to the Big Apple (more precisely, to JFK International Airport) on the afternoon, from where we had to make it to our Airbnb apartment in Jersey City. This was not too difficult in theory, but in practice, it took quite some time, and a misfortunate event made it also quite miserable. So we first took the AirTrain at JFK airport (and bought a 7 day subway pass, a MetroCard) to subway line A to the WTC. This went well (although took surprisingly long on the subway), but the problems started at the WTC, where we – first of all – could not find the PATH train station. While walking to the wrong direction with our luggage, one wheel of our new large bag broke (thanks to the horrible temporary sidewalk surface near the WTC site), which made it very difficult to roll it afterwards (and trying to fix it I immediately cut my finger to make things even “better”). This – on top of being already quite tired from the travel – was a bit too much for me and I got quite annoyed very quickly. Just a few hours before this I was still so happy about the new bag while we were rolling it across the smooth airport floors with almost zero effort, so seeing it break down so quickly – at the worst possible moment – was a huge disappointment. Somehow we managed to find our way back to the PATH station, buy a pass for the PATH train (since the MetroCard is not valid here), and catch a train towards Jersey. Then we got off at Groove Street and still had to walk a half mile to our apartment. Unluckily that half mile with a broken bag weighting more than 20 kilograms took us much more than expected, so when we arrived to the apartment we were feeling quite down… The area in Jersey felt OK, and the apartment was also very homey, but we were so tired and annoyed, that it took us quite some time till we started to appreciate it. Then after we managed to freshen up a bit (thanks to the tiny tiny shower), we went to a nearby pizzeria which had very good reviews (Rustique Pizza). It was a really nice small place with indeed quite good pizza, which came on its own side table! Originally I was not sure if a small pizza would be enough, but after we ordered I saw a big one being placed next to the table behind us, and I immediately knew that I made the right choice sticking to the normal size one. Clio did not even manage finishing half of her plate, so we had some leftovers which I planned to eat (but then did not really manage…) on one of the coming days… On top of everything, Clio’s MacBook died (did not manage to find the HD anymore), so we had to make an appointment to the Apple Store for the next day to have it checked… So as you can see, our stay in New York got a bit of a troubled start, but luckily things got much better soon. (And I also started taking pictures.)

Sunday was our first full day in NYC, which we started with a breakfast in the nearby Starbucks (coffee and croissant for Clio, breakfast sandwich with eggs and chicken plus some orange juice for me), then took the PATH train and the subway to the corner of the southwestern corner of Central Park.

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The weather was quite grey all day long, with a few drops of rain here and there, thus the light were far from optimal from a photographer’s point of view, so I went for a full black and white processing of the pictures taken this day. We first walked around the southern half of the park, looking at the huge boulders left there after the last ice age, crossing the famous bridges, some nice small trails, and staring at the skyline along the border of the green area.

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The size of the park is quite impressive, you could easily spend a full day out there, especially with a frisbee or a pick-nick basket. Also, being a Sunday, the park was closed for motor vehicles, so the roads going along the inside of the perimeter served as a huge outdoor velodrome for the local cyclists, runners, and horse carriages. Originally we also wanted to rent bikes, but at the end we were happy we decided not to, since all the nice walkways were for pedestrians only.

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Around noon we headed back to the southeastern corner to visit one of the most famous Apple Stores of the world, the huge glass cube on the 5th Avenue.

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It took around an hour to have Clio’s computer checked and repaired by one of the hipsters behind the Genius Bar, but it was ok, since I got to spend some time looking at some gadgets (when I managed to move through the crowds inside).

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After the repair was done, we crossed the park towards the American Museum of Natural History. We spent almost three hours inside, as it is indeed a very nice exhibition.

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I especially enjoyed the meteorites and dinosaurs, while Clio liked the sea creatures (and maybe the minerals) the best.

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Also the museum building itself is beautiful, especially the entrance hall. Unluckily the Rose Center for Earth & Space was closed for renovation, although that was the part I was looking forward maybe the most. After the museum we had a late lunch/early dinner at a nearby place, then walked down to the Hudson river Greenway, which is a long and narrow stretch of green along the river.

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At the end of the day we walked inwards Manhattan again to see the modern buildings and spaces of the Lincoln Center for the Performing Arts.

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As it was already getting dark, we headed back “home” from here, and probably went to sleep early and tired, as we always did after a full day of sightseeing.

Denver, CO

After three days of cycling in the beautiful Rockies (or for Clio, being at her ice cold conference), on Thursday morning, we took the bus to Denver. It was a quick and comfortable ride, much better than I expected. It seemed that people in the USA just don’t take buses to travel that far. Or it was just too early on the morning, I do not know. Anyway, after arriving to downtown Denver, we walked to the local Light Rail (let me just say tram) station to meet up with our host, Djazia. This raised the astronomer density with 50% :D We took the tram to the southeast to check in and put our luggage down at our hotel (actually, a quite huge apartment suite) before we headed back to downtown to do a bit of sightseeing in the city itself. Also, Clio got her Nexus 4 so now we have the same phone ;)

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The thunderstorms of the previous days left towards the east, so the weather was nice and sunny again, with temperatures around 25°C. First we dropped by a nice old bookstore, then had a quick lunch at a cool (nerdy) restaurant (the Euclid Hall), followed by a huge cake in a huge bakery (everything is huge over there).

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Reaching our (ok, my) maximum intake capacity, we walked around the main street (16th Street Mall) to get rid off some of the calories… It was a nice transition from the low buildings of Boulder towards the still-to-come skyscrapers of New York.

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I got the second thing I wanted to buy in the USA, a huge set of LEGO, the Architecture Studio. It is a really cool pack of 1210 pieces of solely white and transparent LEGO blocks selected carefully by various architects, and a 270 page book about architecture illustrated with LEGO examples, giving mostly inspiration to your designs, while explaining architectural concepts.

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Afterwards we still walked all the way down to the parks near the Capitol (which was unluckily mostly hidden under a forest of scaffolding). This area did not feel too safe, so both Clio and I were happy to head back towards the more busy streets. For dinner we went to the best sushi place of the city (it was not easy to get there, it took almost an hour with two buses – the distances are surprisingly enormous), the Japon. It is situated within a very nice and calm residential area on a street with more small restaurants and shops. The sushi was indeed great (I accidentally picked the most expensive special rolls from the menu, but I am sure the rest was also as amazing), so we left very satisfied. Since it was getting quite late, we took the taxi back to our hotel, and fell asleep very quickly.

On Friday Clio went shopping with Djazia and I stayed at the hotel to sleep a bit more and play KSP (oh yes, maybe more about that in a separate post). On the evening we had a nice barbecue (although we failed miserably with setting up the fire properly, so at the end the meat was prepared in a pan). I was really happy to finally have a day of not doing anything, because I still felt tired after all the cycling earlier that week. Again, falling asleep was not a problem, even though the generator of the apartment complex started up once every half hour, which made quite some noise…

On Saturday morning we packed our bags again, and took a taxi to the airport to take our flight to New York…

Cycling in the Rocky Mountains

The first day, after getting my rental Trek Domane 4.5 from the local Trek store just a few minutes walk away from our hotel, I headed out to the North in beautiful warm weather. (I apologise up front, but pictures in this post were all taken with my phone, thus the quality is not exactly what you are used to on these pages.) Getting used to a completely different bike geometry took a bit of time, especially that the frame was slightly larger than what I need, and the handlebars were really wide compared to what I am used to. But riding a full carbon bike for the first time in my life was a nice experience. Now I want a new bike :S Anyway, back to the ride. Getting out of the city was not much of a challenge since I had a map on my Garmin Edge 800 GPS (this is actually the first time I had a mapped GPS with me on a biking holiday), but then the climbing started. I first had to ascend a 3rd category hill with nearly half kilometre at 10-12%, which was followed by a long descent to Lyons, where the big mountain of the day started. It was not too steep, but took a while, since I had to ride more than 38 km to gain some 1600 metre in altitude (there was ~2km downhill part within), which made it a HC (Hors Catégorie) ascent. The scenery was really nice, the roads wide and smooth with very little traffic, so I enjoyed it a lot.

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To make it more interesting, I got a flat somewhere along the ascent, so I finally got to use my CO2 cartridges with my new handpump (cool!). But since changing tires is nothing of a challenge after riding 23000 kilometres, I also got a nice thunderstorm for the last part of the climb. Huge but sparse drops of rain started to fall when I reached an elevation of 2300 metres, and with the precipitation, the temperature also started to drop. I was riding in 30°C before the clouds came, and in a bit less than one hour, the temperature dropped to a mere 5°C… Yeah, the sparse drops soon turned into heavy rain, which turned into a mix of snow, ice, and graupel, which first of all was a bit painful (making me think about what to do if the ice grows in size and starts falling in not 0.5-1 cm pieces but 5…, which luckily did not happen), second of all it acted like ice in the fridge, hence the 25°C drop in no time, but despite the suffering I went through during these kilometres, it was a huge experience, and now it seems like one of the best things from this holiday. I know, it sounds crazy :) Of course the worst part was not going up in that cold, but that I had to start my descent at 2800 metres in 5°C with no warm clothes except for a wind/rain jacket (which already lost its ability to keep rain out). It was around 15 kilometres to go down till the air started to warm up, and going 40 km/h in 5°C means a perceived temperature (thanks to wind chill) of -17°C… I quickly started shivering quite seriously, which meant that I really had to concentrate not to let the handlebars go and fall off the bike. It was not easy. When I finally escaped from the clouds and arrived to a crossroad with sunshine, I stopped for a while to warm up a bit.

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By the time I started climbing the last hill (4th category) it was back to 27°C again, and sweating :) I finished the day after 112.37 km and an elevation gain of 1794 metres. More details can be found on Garmin Connect or Strava. Thanks to Clio I had a huge burrito waiting for me in the fridge (and also lots of grapes we had bought the previous day in the Whole Foods Market), so I had quite some difficulty when I still wanted to finish a full plate of pasta for dinner…

On Tuesday, I started the same way towards the north, but just before the long 10-12% section of the previous day, I turned left… to have a similar section but now with sustained 12-14%… At least the view was first class again. Soon afterwards the climb became less brutal, but it went all the way up till 2125 metres in elevation. After this 2nd category climb, I descended to the valley and started climbing up again (along Lefthand Canyon Drive), on the same road I descended while battling the elements the day before. You might recall that it was a long descent, which of course means that now it was a long ascent. Very long. It started at 2000 metres and went up till 3168 metres, which means I had an average grade of 4.5% on a bit more than 26 kilometres (HC climb). Luckily except for a 3 km section arriving to Ward with an average of ~8%, it was not too steep, so I had energy to keep looking around end enjoy the scenery. I started to hear thunder in the distance quite early already (around 2400 metres), so I was a bit worried about the rest of the day, especially that I knew I am heading towards a lake at 3150 metres, situated in a quite open area, which is not the safest place to be in a thunderstorm… Luckily after a few drops of rain near Ward it cleared up again, and I arrived in nice weather and sunshine to the Brainard Lake.

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It was really beautiful up there, but you could feel that the oxygen content of the air was much lower than usual, so I was glad to have some downhill from here. I took the Peak to Peak Highway to Nederland (mostly flat or not too steep downhill, then a 4th category climb), and for some reason, I got a flat again…

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At that point it was raining again, and with lightning being not too far from me, I performed the fastest tube-change of my life so far. From Nederland I had to climb a little bit along the reservoir before starting the long descent towards Boulder in another canyon (the 3rd so far), but it was barely a 4th category hump if any. Of course, for the long descent I got heavy rain (again…), so I could not really enjoy it, especially that it was a bit more busy than the other roads I have ridden so far, but I knew that I would be climbing back up there the coming day, so I was not really bothered by it. Also, this time the temperature went down to only 11°C (from 23°C) and I even had my arm warmers with me, so I was not at all cold. Before riding back to the hotel I dropped by the Trek store to buy another spare tire and a CO2 cartridge to replace the ones I used up. I finished after 102.13 km and 1910 metres of elevation gain. Full details of the ride can be found on Garmin Connect and Strava. That evening I had no difficulty finishing my plate at Noodles & Company.

On Wednesday, I first headed out to climb Flagstaff Hill (2nd category climb, 5.5 km @ 6.2%), which is the most local, classic climb of Boulder cyclists. With its switchbacks it is indeed the climb most similar to the big European ascents, and with the view to the Flatirons, Boulder and the plains towards Denver, and towards the higher snowy peaks of the Rockies from the finish line, it is indeed a must have in every cyclists logbook.

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As usual I had some friendly americans to chat with at the top before rolling back to Boulder (almost running into a deer family crossing the road) and turning west to start the long climb of the day. It is 22 km at an average 4% (HC) along the Boulder Canyon Drive till the Barker Reservoir, which is not steep at all, except for ~5 km in the middle with sustained grades up till 10% (which makes the rest even less steep). Now in good weather I could enjoy the steep walls of the canyon around me, with great rock formations everywhere.

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The view from the reservoir was also very nice, especially that finally there was no risk of thunderstorms, but clear skies.

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From Nederland there was still a bit of climbing (a good 4th category up to 2626 metres) along the Peak to Peak highway before the road started going downhills and I turned right on Coal Creek Canyon Road (the 4th and last canyon on the bike). The downhill went on for almost 10 km, before the road turned uphills again. This last ascent was a bit more than 4 km at an average almost 5% back up to an elevation of 2630 metres.

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From the last hairpin there was a great view to the higher Rockies! The long descent from here was the nicest from the three days – but I do not know if because it was again a very nice canyon, or because this was the only dry descent I had where I was not breaking all the time ;) For the last 20 km I escaped the Rockies and rode the plains under the foothills with great views back to the mountainous landscape I just left behind. I arrived back to the trek store to drop off the bike after 100.94 km and 1761 metres of elevation gain, and as usual, all the details are on Garmin Connect and Strava.

Since I got back quite early from the ride (after leaving very early on the morning), and Clio had only a half day of conference that day, we still had a walk and some food downtown on the afternoon. For dinner, we went to a place called West Flanders Brewing Company, and I had a burger and some Belgian style beer (which was quite nice, even though they ran out of my first choice, the Angry Monk).

On Thursday morning, we took the bus to Denver…