Sunrise on the Pico del Teide [3718 m]

It was not my idea. I thought that this time I would finally manage to travel to the Canary Islands without winter clothes, gloves, caps, warm hiking boots, etc. But on the last week before leaving to the Winter School, I got an e-mail from Ádám, who works at the Konkoly Observatory in Budapest (Hungary), that he would really like to climb the Teide, but he needs someone to join… And of course I could not say no to such an idea :) So I even packed in my hiking sticks (the ones I bought in Andorra) along with my full hiking equipment (GPS, headlamp, etc.). This probably meant an extra 3 kilograms at least… There was only one problem at the beginning: the permit. Because you can not just walk up to the very top of Spain, you need a permit for it. As the volcano lies in a National Park, they want to protect the caldera from erosion by not letting up all the thousands of tourists, who take the cable car all the way up till 3550 meter ASL. The cable car runs from 9 AM till 4 PM, and you can apply for a permit online for these hours. Also, if you sleep in the Altavista refuge (at 3270 m ASL), then you can go and climb the peak – if you leave the restricted part before 9 AM – with a stamped document which proves your previous stay in the hut. Now, to make it complicated, we planned to make the climb during the night, but without sleeping on the mountain, so it was not clear how to proceed. I tried to get information from the National Park (via e-mail), but with no success. We had no 100% secure information on Saturday morning, less than a day before the planned ascent, so as a last idea, we went to the info point of La Laguna, where we asked the lady – who gave us the guided tour in the city an hour earlier :) – to find out what do we need to do. It turned out (after she spoke with someone and mentioned that two astrophysicists wants to climb the peak ;D), that we can go without a permit, if we leave the peak before 9 AM. We were really happy about this!

We spent the rest of the day with shopping (food and drinks for the climb), and – as I already told about it yesterday – with a scenic ride through the Anaga Mountains. Then Ádám went to sleep early (he is not crazy, I should have done the same, but you know, I am crazy :D), and I went for dinner (and had one of the best pizzas of my life in a very nice restaurant). My original plan was to sleep at least three hours, but at the end, I only managed 40 minutes… So you can imagine how painful it was to get out of the bed at 1 AM… So after a long and quiet drive to the National Park, we parked the car in the parking place at 2350 m ASL at 2:15, and started the hike at 2:30 (five hours before Sunrise), under the light of the magnificent full Moon.

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It was so bright, we could have walked all the way up without headlamps. The route was very easy during the first 4.5 kilometers, meandering through volcanic ash, sand, and rock formations, and the “real thing” started after this part, somewhere at 2750 m ASL. Then the next 3.5 km brought more than 800 meter of elevation gain, on a steep, but not at all technically difficult path (no use of hands needed) through the frozen lava-flows of the Teide. The only difficulty was the less and less air to breath, so we became quite slow above 3000 meter. Luckily, we had a lot of time, so there was no reason to rush. Then there was a ~700 meter long almost flat section leading to the mountain station of the cable car at 3550 meter ASL, where the restricted path started towards the peak. Of course at this hour there was no one at the checkpoint asking for permits… The last half kilometer with more than 150 meter of elevation gain was really slow, and steep. The Moon was (still) surrounded by a full halo ring, and we started to smell the sulfur gases of the volcano. We arrived at the very top at 6:35. We were not the first ones to arrive, but far not the last ones either. And we were the only ones who started from the parking place, and not from the refuge… It was very cold on the peak (which is the highest side along the rim of the crater), somewhere around -5°C with strong winds, so it felt like -20°C…

We took cover between the rocks, but it was far from perfect. It was so cold, that I had to put on another top layer (a thermal ski underwear), but to do so, first I had to get rid of everything from my upper body except the my T-shirt… (For the best effect, I should have put on the ski thing as the very bottom layer, but getting of the T-shirts was really not an option at that moment.) Man, the 10 seconds I had to stand there like that was terrible. By the time I was finished with this operation, I really did not feel the end of my fingers (as I had to get my gloves off too, to be able to change clothes). Luckily with everything back on, the situation started to feel much more comfortable.

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At this point, the dawn was already underway, coloring the sky above the eastern horizon with shades of blue, yellow, orange and red. After waiting three quarters of an hour, the Sun started to rise, casting the shadow of the mountain towards the island of La Palma.

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As the Sun climbed higher on the sky, the triangular shadow became more prominent, and covered the sea between Tenerife and La Palma. The other hikers left the harsh peak as fast as they could after they all made their pictures, but we stayed much longer.

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It was so beautiful, that I wish we could have stayed even longer. And – to say something positive about the freezing cold wind -, finally the Hungarian flag flew as a flag always should! It was also very interesting to see the gases coming up from the crater…

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At the end, we started the descent after one hour and 15 minutes on the peak, and we left the restricted path behind 30 minutes before the deadline.

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The walk down felt very long and tiring, but now – thanks to the daylight – we could at least see the surroundings too :)

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The view was of course magnificent, with the whole (visible) world below us. I especially like the reflection of low clouds on the mirror of the sea…

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The last kilometers seemed like an endless walk in the desert, it was hot, dry, and sand all over the place.

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We arrived back to the car 9 hours and 30 minutes after we started the climb. I was so tired (after 1400 meters of elevation gain, several hours spent above 3000 meter, and basically no sleep for 30 hours), that I did not manage to stay awake while Ádám drove us back to the Hotel. Luckily he did :)

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It was a wonderful climb, highly recommended! (GPS details here.)

Winter School on Tenerife – 1st week

I am not really in the mood of bloggin’ these days, but I don’t want to forget everything (and I still enjoy looking back at old posts, and I want to look back to these things later on), so I will make myself write something. It is just difficult to sit down and start writing, when you have so many other things to do. Anyway, let’s do it :) So Steven and I left Leuven at 5 AM on a rainy and cold Saturday morning (13th of November), with the hope that we would be on Tenerife already that afternoon, one day before the start of the winter school. This plan failed already before take-off, as the Spanish air-traffic controllers decided to screw with thousands of travelers, for a higher salary and better work-conditions (I guess). And only the pilot was brave enough to tell us the truth, because on the airports, the official explanation was bad weather (which was clearly not the case in Madrid). So we had to wait two hours at the gate (I had to buy a book to read – and for your information, the reading failed because I did not sleep anything on the previous night), one hour in the airplane but still on the tarmac, before we finally took off. It was granted at that point, that we would miss our connection in the Spanish capital, but what really came after we landed in Madrid, was beyond our wildest expectations.

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We had to queue for more than three hours to exchange our tickets (meanwhile watching two other planes leaving to Tenerife), because there were only 3 people behind the IBERIA information desk, dealing with half of all the delayed people on the whole terminal… At the end, we got a ticket for the following morning, and we were taken to a hotel in the outskirts of Madrid… Strangely enough, the dinner was in an Asian restaurant. So on the next morning we had to get up at 6 AM, and catch the flight after a quick breakfast in the Starbucks of the airport. I do not know if only because of the delays, but our plane was an Airbus A340-600, the second biggest plane of the Airbus company (following the new A380), so I was happy :) It even had a tail-cam broadcasting live from the top of the tail ;) So at the end, we arrived to our hotel in La Laguna 37 hours after we left Leuven. Still in time for the welcome drinks. We even managed to get Belgian beers in a pub during the evening, so we knew we were safe from then on.

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The school part of the XXII Canary Islands Winter School of Astrophysics was – most of the time – interesting, you can find all the presentations on-line, if you need to know more, but I will not write about this here. For me, the school was a very good opportunity to get to know a lot of young researchers and professors from the field. As we were together for two weeks, it was not a hard task. So from now on, I  will cover only the social events, not the science.

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On Monday evening, we visited a local wine cellar, and after a walk through the cellar and the production area, we had a dinner there. It supposed to be a wine tasting event with some food, but it turned out to be a dinner, with one red and white wine only… On Tuesday, we went to the IAC headquarters. I do not really have anything to say about that, except that the big engineering room was cool. The buffet dinner was not (but this is the only negative thing I can say about the IAC).

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Wednesday was lecture-free (we had four 90 min lectures every “workday” – except Wednesdays), but we had to get up early, because we flew to La Palma to visit the Observatory there. Flying such short-distances with these small planes is like taking the bus. Our schedule was very tight, so we did not have too much time at different points, but at least we saw a lot.

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We visited the following telescopes: MAGIC, GTC (finally, I made it – yes, this is a reference to the afternoon, when I overslept the visit in October), WHT, and the TNG (follow the links for videos!), plus we had lunch and coffee at the Residencia, and 15 minutes at the Roque de Los Muchachos. We had perfect weather (with cool cycling sunglasses on :D), so the road up and down was also really nice (for those who did not sleep in the bus al the time :D). Before catching our flight back, we had 20 (!) minutes to walk around Santa Cruz. Did I already mention, that we had a tight schedule? :D

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Thursday and Friday was nothing special (lectures – oh, and I got a very positive referee report on my submitted paper!), then on Saturday after a guided tour around the center of La Laguna (video here) we rode through the beautiful Anaga Mountains in the Northeastern part of Tenerife (video here), and we went shopping for the next day, which I will cover in my next post soon :)

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To be continued…

Asteroseismology

Sorry for no posts recently, but I am very busy. To fill in the gap, please watch the presentation below (given by my supervisor) if you are still not familiar with the field of my research. I will write in detail about the past two weeks (the IAC Winter School) as soon as I can. Stay tuned, and check out the pictures in the meantime.

The 100th Belgian beer – and even more!

Yesterday – after my poster for the upcoming XXII Canary Islands Winter School of Astrophysics was finished and printed – I went to Brussels with a couple of colleagues/friends, to celebrate my 100th Belgian beer. Some of us even had a dinner on the Grote Markt before we moved (in the rain) to the famous Delirium Café. Why is it famous? Because this bar has the most varieties of beer (2004 to be precise, and the majority of them is Belgian) commercially available on the whole planet. It is included on the list of the Guinness World Records!

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It is an extremely nice bar indeed (just a bit smoky, but not that bad), with the beer cards/plates/logos all around the place, and barrels used as tables. One might find it difficult to choose from a selection of two thousand beers, but I was prepared. After my visit to Westvleteren last weekend, I spent some time on the internet, and listed some of those high-rated beers which I have not yet tasted, and which might be hard to find outside this bar. So the first beer (and so my 100th Belgian beer – se it without and with me on the pictures below) we had was a special old cherry beer, the Cantillon Lou Pepe – Kriek 2004. Very different from anything else I had before, with a complex, layered taste, strong smell, and natural color. Good choice.

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The next one, with a shocking deep and dark, heavy taste and smell, was the Gouden Carolus Cuvée Van De Keizer Blauw 2005. One of the greatest (and strangest) beers I ever had, it is worth reading some reviews on it here, because I can not describe it well enough. Then came the Chimay Grand Réserve 2008, which was a bit similar to the previous one, but made by the monks :) Again a complex, world class beer. Then to move a bit away from the heavy, dark colors and smells, we had a Chimay Cinq Cents. It has fruity notes of muscat and raisins in its taste ;)

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The last two beers were not that special, though the quite new and “nothing can be found about it on the internet” l’Outre-rue – Bière Urbaine was still well above the level of the average and bit boring Omer Traditional Blond. We had to leave after this to catch the last train back to Leuven – leaving from Brussels Central Station a couple of minutes after midnight. Back in Leuven we decided to have one more beer on the Oude Markt (just a light Lindemans Apple for me). It was a very nice evening, with good food, good beers, and good company! After a good – and long – sleep, today I submitted my first paper!

Disclaimer: we spent almost four hours in the Delirium Café, and shared 75 cl bottles with 6 people, so no one get hurt/drunk during the evening. And here is the list – in chronological order :)

01 Rochefort 8
02 Duvel
03 Orval
04 Grimbergen Dubbel
05 Rochefort 10
06 Steenbrugge Blond
07 Brugge Tripel
08 La Chouffe
09 Stella Artois
10 Schuppenboer Tripel
11 Schuppenboer Tripel 2009 (*different label and taste)
12 Malheur 8
13 Girardin Gueuze
14 Larumse Corneel 2004
15 Früli Aardbei
16 Bios Vlaamse Bourgogne
17 Tempelier
18 Achel Bruin
19 Boerinneken
20 Jupiler
21 Rochefort 6
22 Kwak
23 Hapkin
24 Westmalle Tripel
25 Rogier
26 Mc Chouffe
27 Westmalle Dubbel
28 Corsendonk Pater
29 Corsendonk Blond
30 Palm
31 Hoegaarden
32 Chimay Wit
33 Chimay Rood
34 Lucifer
35 Saison Dupont
36 Hopus
37 Chimay Blauw
38 Nen Engel van Domus
39 Ciney Bruin
40 Ciney Blonde
41 Grimbergen Cuvee de l’Ermitage
42 Tongerlo Prior
43 Tripel Karmeliet
44 Bush Amber
45 Brigand
46 Cuvee des Trolls
47 Bierbeekse
48 Grimbergen Blond
49 Vedett Extra Blond
50 Affligem Blond
51 Affligem Dubbel
52 Affligem Tripel
53 St. Bernardus Abt 12
54 Cristal
55 Park
56 Hoegaarden Grand Cru
57 Kasteel Bruin 2009 (and 2010 later on)
58 Maes
59 Leuvenese Tripel
60 Tongerlo Blond
61 Achel Blond
62 Villers Tripel
63 Villers Oud Vielle
64 Maredsous 8
65 Kessel Blond
66 Hommelbier
67 Kasteel Rouge
68 Kasteel Triple
69 Belle-Vue Kriek
70 Leffe Bruin
71 Hoegaarden Rosée
72 Hoegaarden Citron
73 Malheur 12
74 Judas
75 Kasteel Blond
76 De Verboden Vrucht
77 Nen Tripel van Domus
78 Con Domus
79 Delirium Tremens
80 St. Feuillien Bruin Réserve
81 Vedett Extra White
82 Leffe 9
83 Augustijn Donker
84 Chapeau Banana
85 Pannepot 2009
86 St. Feuillien Tripel
87 St. Feuillien Blond
88 Barbãr Winter Bok
89 Gusto 1833 Ruby Red
90 Leffe Radieuse
91 Kriek Boon 2009
92 Mort Subite Kriek
93 Mort Subite Kriek Xtreme
94 Lindemans Kriek
95 Timmermans Framboise
96 Leffe Kerstbier
97 Grimbergen Goud
98 Westvleteren 12
99 Westvleteren 8
100 Cantillon Lou Pepe – Kriek 2004
101 Gouden Carolus Cuvée Van De Keizer Blauw 2005
102 Chimay Grand Réserve 2008
103 Chimay Cinq Cents
104 l’Outre-rue – Bière Urbaine
105 Omer Traditional Blond
106 Lindemans Apple

Westvleteren (12 & 8)

Az élet újra a régi belga kerékvágásban: megy a munka ezerrel, de azért jut idő másra is. Egyébként úgy döntöttem, hogy múltheti elhatározásom ellenére mégsem veszek új telefont amíg a mostani még jól működik. Bármennyire is jó meg cool egy iPhone 4, ennyi pénzt nem vagyok hajlandó áldozni rá. Más meg nem kell. Ugyanannyiból vehetek egy PS3-at meg egy edzőgörgőt a biciklihez. És még marad pénzem… Ennek örömére előbbit már be is szereztem (utóbbit majd ha hazajöttem a tenerifei téli iskolából november végén), FIFA 11-el isteni, kár hogy tesóm nincs itt hogy jól elpáholjam ;) (Nem véletlenül vettem ám fél évvel ezelőtt olyan LCD monitort, aminek van HDMI csatlakozója is…)

Múltkori kijelentésem a 99 sörről végül is nem volt helyes, mivel Steven egy hihetetlenül találó érveléssel meggyőzött arról, hogy miért is nem kéne a holland trappista “La Trappe” söröket a belga sörök közé számolnom… Ugyanis én azzal érveltem, hogy a határtól 15 km-re van az apátság, ugyanazok szerint a flamand hagyományok szerint készítik a sört, szóval miért is ne lehetne az is belga… (A következő mondat kellő megértéséhez elevenítsük fel, hogy 7 trappista sörmárka van, ezek közül hat Belgiumban, és egy Hollandiában – utóbbi trappistaként való elfogadására a belgák többsége igen mérges, mert így érzik, hogy a trappista amolyan “belgicum”…) Erre Steven megkérdezte, hogy mit szólnék, ha a Szlovákok is használhatnák a Tokaji márkanevet… Nem vagyok nacionalista, de azért ez kiverte a biztosítékot :D Egyből megértettem, hogy miért nem szeretik a belgák hogy a La Trappe is szerepel a trappista sörök között, így szépen ki is húztam őket a listámról. Ennyi jár. Szóval a századik sör majd jövő héten, de már meg van tervezve az esemény, jó sokan leszünk, ráadásul különleges helyen is :) De többet most nem árulok el.

A hosszas bevezetés után térjünk rá a mai nap eseményeire. A hét elején a sokadik sör-review olvasása közben villant át az agyamon, hogy valahogy azért mégiscsak meg kéne kóstolni a világ legjobbjának tartott (a két vezető sör-értékelő honlap mindegyike – a RateBeer és a Beeradvocate – ezt tartja a number one-nak, mai állás szerint) sörét, még ha a világ végére is kell menni érte. Ugyanis a hetedik – és a máig egyetlen még meg nem ízlelt – trappista sört csakis az apátságnál lehet kapni, mivel sehol másutt nem kerül(het) forgalomba. (Bár az apátság felújítási munkálataihoz kellő pénz miatt gondolkodnak a kereskedelmi forgalomba hozatalon, amit szerintem nagyon nem kéne, de tudom hogy a pénz nagy úr…) Szóval kiderült, hogy egy átszállással, két és fél óra vonatozással, majd egy órányi (kb. 6 km egy irányba) gyaloglással autó nélkül is el lehet jutni a francia határ közelében fekvő St. Sixtus apátsághoz, pontosabban az azzal szemben található In de Vrede kávézóhoz (alábbi képen az úttól balra és jobbra a távolban).

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Ugyan a hétvégi kedvezményes vonatjegy is kicsit több mint 20 €, és egy egész napot igényel a projekt, de úgy döntöttem, hogy a most szombat pont ideális erre. A péntek esti falmászás (és sörözés – Grimbergen Goud) után kissé nehezemre esett a hajnali kilences felkelés, de csodával határos módon sikerült elérnem a tízes vonatot (óránként mentek, szóval nem lett volna tragédia lekésni, de mégsem akartam túl későn hazaérni), sőt még egy szendvicset is tudtam venni reggelire. Odafelé lényegében aludtam, de azt félig nyitott szemmel is örömmel konstatáltam, hogy az idő az előrejelzettnél sokkal jobban alakul – néha még a nap is ki-kisütött. (Ugyanis én arra készültem, hogy majd szakadó esőben fogom lesétálni a Poperinge és az apátság közötti távot.) Az út gyalogos része teljesen problémamentesen telt (GPS-re töltöttem térképet, szóval eltévedésnek esélye sem volt, plusz a kutyák sem ettek meg), ráadásul így volt időm lélekben felkészülni a világ legjobb sörének megízlelésére. (Az ilyen áhítattal teli, vallásos vándorutaknak van valami neve magyarul, de nem jut szembe, bakker… – szerk.: zarándoklat – csak haza kellett érnem és beugrott :D) Maga a kávézó meglepően nagy és modern, de nagyon hangulatos, és van egy pici bolt része is, ahol emléktárgyakat, és díszdobozos sört is lehet venni. Sajnos olyan csomag nem volt, amiben mindhárom fajta Westvleteren sör plusz pohár lett volna, de azért nem jöttem el üres kézzel. És persze a vásárlás után beültem az étterem részbe, és belefelejtkeztem a kulináris élvezetekbe.

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Először a világ legjobb sörének tartott Westvleteren 12-t ittam (fenti képe, már az elsó korty után, leült habbal), majd az ugyancsak a top tízben levő Westvleteren 8-at (alsó kép). Mindkettőt salátával, magos barna kenyérrel és apátsági sajttal kísérve fogyasztottam. (Ez így összesen borravalóval újabb 20 € kiadás volt, maga a Westvleteren 12 “csupán” 4.50 €-ba került.) A sajt a sörhöz hasonlóan isteni volt. A 12 szerintem is kicsit jobb volt, mint a 8-as, mennyeien selymes, de tipikus trappista ízzel. Én nem tudok olyan ódákat írni, és részletes ízleírást, mint a sörblogok, de kétségtelenül különleges, nemes íze volt.

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Így most már tényleg 99 különböző belga sör után nehéz kijelenteni, hogy ez volt mind közül a legjobb, mert pl. amikor először ittam Kasteel Bruin-t vagy Rouge-t, akkor az jobban az újdonság erejével hatott, mert korábban még hasonlót sem ízleltem, és akkor nagyon más és jó volt. De ennek ellenére semmiképp nem állítanám, hogy jobbak a Westvleteren-nél. Mert nem. Viszont a Westvleteren nagyon hasonlít a többi erős barna trappista sörhöz, és csak árnyalatnyi különbségek vannak. Ráadásul nem könnyű visszaemlékezni az egy évvel korábban – még jóval kisebb tapasztalattal – ivott sörökre, szóval nem biztos, hogy az összehasonlítás teljesen objektív, de jóvá tudom hagyni, hogy ez a világ legjobb söre. Természetesen nagyon sokat emel különlegességén, hogy csak egyetlen egy helyen lehet kapni, és az éves termelés is igen kis mennyiség. Szóval valószínűleg az íz és a ritkaság együtt alkotja meg ezt a világ minden táján nagyra becsült és csodált nedűt. Viszont nem vagyok biztos benne, hogy ha nagyobb mennyiségben és bevásárlóközpontokban is elérhető lenne, akkor is megtartaná ezt a kiemelt státuszát, még ha az íz nem is változna… De remélhetőleg erre nem kerül sor.

Most (szerk.: amikor ezt írtam) a vonaton ülök hazafelé :) Igen, a MacBook-ot is hoztam magammal, hogy azért a sok óra utazás ne menjen el haszontalanul. Lehet hogy be kéne szerezni egy 3G-s modemet, akkor még netezni is tudnék :D Na jó, most hagyom abba. Lényeg ami lényeg, nagyon nagy élmény volt a mai nap, megérte hogy nem hallgattam reggel a kisördögre, ami azt súgta a fülembe, hogy inkább aludnom kéne még…